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I do not remember exactly when it hit me.

We go to state and county fairs often, and have seen old tractors on display, and watched them run, and one time got to see an antique tractor pull.  I guess it was at the Kentucky State Fair in 1998 that I bought 6 raffle tickets for five bucks on a 1940 John Deere model B with spoke wheels and electric start that I really thought about getting an old tractor.  The tractor in the raffle looked like my late uncle Cliff Sigler's model B that I got to drive when we visited his Floyd, Iowa farm back in 1963.  My wife, Carolyn, thinks it is not a bad idea, and asked me where we will keep it.  I say the garage.  She said I have to clean it first.  By the way, we live in a suburb of Chicago, about 30 miles southwest in unincorporated Will County, and are surrounded by farms that are slowly turning into subdivisions.

I think the 1998 Sandwich Fair here in Illinois last Labor Day may have tripped the trigger.  I asked an old gent in one of the display tents, where they had a Farmall model B on display, how much that tractor would go for.  His replay knocked the wind out of me.  He said that as it was completely restored, it would bring about $2800 or so.  I thought it would go for ten times that much.  "This just may work"  I say to myself.  I ask how much for one in a reasonably restorable condition, and he said anywhere from $200 up, depending on condition and luck.  I decide to get one, and what I want is one just like Uncle Cliff's.

The story begins:

10-10-98:  Began looking for a John Deere model B tractor.  I want an unstyled hand start, but a styled hand start would do.  I find one only a mile from home, at the animal care facility.  It is a 1941, electric start, and is in pretty good shape.  It is also not for sale, Carolyn found when she called them the next day to see about it.  I found a model A parked by a barn on 151st Street, just south of the house a mile or so.  I stop in and visit, to find it is for sale ($1500), but the owner (Dan Tulley) also has a model B, another model A, and a model G in the barn.  Dan takes me for a ride around the field on his model G.  Wow, I got to get one of these things!

10-15-98:  Found four web sites that deal with antique tractors.  Placed an ad on each, "Looking for a JD model B in northeast Illinois.  There are lots of ads for model B's but none close enough to me here in the Chicago area.

11-16-98:  Checked the email: Several people replied, Andrew Kitson in Dixon, Illinois (stuck HS 1940), Charles Westerfield near Owensboro, Kentucky, (Parade ready ES 1950) "John T" in Bloomington, Indiana, (Not stuck and may run ES 1942), one in Ithaca, New York (running ES 1940), Steve Wulff in Coloma, MI, (needs mag, ES 1944) Don Gilbertson in Collins, WI, (stuck ES late model) and one reply from "chevelle" telling me to call Lakeside Implement in Wisconsin.

10-30-98:  Checked out Tom and Andrew Kitson's tractor in Dixon (stuck, $500, tires shot, but all there).  Nice visit with Andrew and his dad, Tom.  Said we would stay in touch.  Andrew and Tom have an electric start 1940 B at home in the garage.  It is torn down and under repair.  Andrew says he is looking for a battery box top cover.  He also showed us his antique pie safe, in process of being refinished.

10-31-98:  Went up to Lakeside with our friend Pat Noonan, who is restoring a hand start 1939 Farmall M (Serial # FBK9014), and Carolyn to look around.  We found 5 stuck model B's with electric-start junkers as well as a model H and a model 50, and one running model B ES that they are asking $1595.

10-31-98:  Looking around on the internet for part suppliers when we get home.  Found a place in Paynesville, Minnesota (the home of Jessie Ventura, the newly elected Governor) that has tractor parts and a free catalog, so I asked for one.  Found several on-line part suppliers, including paint and decals, which I will eventually need.

11-1-98:  The Svobodas in North-central Wisconsin emailed that they have a 1937 unstyled model B hand start for $1850.  This is what I really want, but it is too much money for right now.  I also found a new ad on the internet, and answered it.  Jeff Bergman lives in Litchfield, IL, has a hand start 1941 model B for sale and is asking $1400.  Ad says the tractor looks good, has new tires, runs good, and has operator and shop manual.

11-2-98:  Found John Deere paint in spray cans, pints, quarts and gallons at the Ace Hardware store on 159th St., two miles from home.

11-5-98:  Carolyn and I drove to Litchfield on Thursday to take a look at Jeff's tractor.  It will do nicely, as it needs some work, but is pretty sound.  Jeff tells us he has owned it for 10 years or so, and bought it from Timmerman Implements, the John Deere dealer in Litchfield.  We gave him $700, said I would return with the balance on the 15th, and continued on to Louisville to visit Carolyn's family.

Click here to see what it looks like in Jeff's barn.

11-15-98:  Dan and I departed Lockport 5:30AM for Litchfield to pick up tractor.  I rented a trailer for $60 and borrowed a truck from Dan's buddy Fred.  We arrived at Jeff's house at 10:15AM, and loaded the tractor (1 inch to spare on each side, rear axle 3" behind tandem centerline).

Click here to see Jeff loading it on our rig.

Click here to see it loaded up.

Departed for home at 11:00AM.  We checked the chains at 30 miles, and took the binder up 2 links.  We checked them again at 60 miles, and took up one more link.  We checked them again at 120 miles, and it was still tight.  The tractor rode good all the way home.  It cost about $50 in gas for the trip.  The trailer goes back Monday 700AM.

Click here to see us unloading it.

11-15-98:  Put the tractor to bed in the garage.  Fits just fine.  Measuring everything (garage, tractor and trailer) in advance sure helps.

Click here to see it in the garage.

After putting it in the garage, I looked it over and found a few things that need to be done.  The dash has an ammeter and charging selector switch!!!  No generator, but a few holes in the front fan shaft support where one may have been mounted.  Did not find any wires or battery box.  I notice for the first time that the hood is held on with three kinds of bolts, including Philips machine screws, hex and clutch head bolts.  Also noticed no clutch cover with one spring clip missing, and one nut on the tappet cover is missing.

11-16-98:  Parts catalog arrived from Paynesville Tractor Parts.  They have all kinds of used parts, as well as new (not "NOS" or New Old Stock, so they are not original) parts.

11-18-98:  Called Paynesville Tractor Parts and they have two sizes of used clutch covers (large and small sizes) and lots of dashes.  Joe needs to know the diameter of the clutch.

11-19-98:  I measured the clutch and call them back.  They have only one dash with two gauge holes, and may have a tappet cover nut, so I ordered them, $10 for the 10" clutch cover, $20 for the dash, plus shipping, and Joe said if he could find one he would throw the nut in for free.

11-21-98:  We went over to Circle W Tractor, our local John Deere dealer to order parts and service manuals.  Billy, the parts man asked if I could bring it over next Saturday so he could see it.  I say that I will think about it.  He also said that he has had calls about someone looking for an old tractor to be used for hay rides.

I think that I need to get a clutch head wrench to take the hood apart.  I haven't seen clutch head bolts for 35 years.  Did not find one at the hardware stores after two days of looking, including Blains Farm and Fleet in Bradley.  I can take the old bolts out with a wrench, as they (or at least they all did when new, have hex heads as well as the clutch sockets.)

Got lots of email about the hood bolts today.  One guy says the "Correct Connection" has just what I need.  The message on the antique tractor forum from "Dan-Ca", who did not leave an email address:

"I have not looked at a B lately, but I needed some bolts for the hood and nosepiece for my Model M.  I wanted original and was able to get them through John Deere.  They are a pan head type "bolt" with a straight slot for a screwdriver.  They are held into the sheet metal with a pin that inserts into the end of the bolt after it is stuck through the sheet metal hole.  The pin retains the bolt in the sheet metal and also serves to fit into the holder to hold everything in place.  The only way to remove one of these bolts (I'm told) is to grind the pins off and replace with a new bolt and pin, since trying to remove the old pin is almost impossible.  New ones are still available and like everything else through John Deere, extremely expensive, over $5.00 each plus the little pin.  Hope this helps.

A company called "Correct Connection" advertises in the "Two-Cylinder" magazine.  He has sets of bolts and nuts for most old tractors.  He will know which are the right ones for your tractor.  I bought mine from him."

11-23-98:  The parts from Paynesville Tractor parts arrived today, clutch cover, a two instrument hole dash and TWO tappet cover nuts.  The parts are rusty, and covered with an oily film.  Cleanup and repaint needed.

11-24-98:  Bought a heavy duty angle head grinder, cup type wire brush and extra grinding disks at Home Depot.

11-25-98:  Washed the parts with HSW (Hot Soapy Water) and found green paint and rust.  Need to weld a small hole on the dash (about 3/8" drilled hole) and pound out a small dent.  I'll do this on Friday. Adjusted the seat forward a little, and tried to tighten the spring, but the bolt is stuck.  I will need to replace the 7/8 inch square head bolt and nut.  Started it up, let it run a few minutes, and shut it down.  Getting easier to start, so I guess I'm learning the trick.

11-26-98:  One of the tappet cover nuts fits just fine.  The other was too large.  Must be for the newer engine.  I started it up on the first pull today.  Dan started it up for the first time with about four pulls while I worked the choke for him.  Lots of fun.

11-27-98:  Started it up and took it for a spin down the street in all gears up to 6th.  Tried the PTO, and can not make the power lift work.  It jumps out of low range every so often also.  Put it back in the garage.  Welded the hole in the new dash, cleaned it with a wire brush, primed with Rustoleum's rusty-metal primer, and painted it with Rustoleum's JD Green from Ace hardware.  Did the clutch cover and the muffler patch as well.  I looked inside the steering box and the top bushing is where all of the free movement seems to be.  I drilled out a broken bolt in the front of the pedestal where the "medallion" bolts on.  Re-tapped it 5/16-18 and all is well.  Installed the clutch cover.

11-29-98:  Took the dash apart, transferred the gauges to the new one and installed it.  Found a BIG hornet's nest on the back of the old dash.  The shutter knob turns real hard, so I will work on that some more.  Took the front hood sides off to get to the shutter mechanism , and the radiator, shutters and steering are really covered with grime.  Bought some engine cleaner for later.  Signed up for the Two Cylinder Magazine today.

Click here to see the new dash.

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